Updated January 2020 following our second visit to Quito
阅读时很容易变得偏执或困惑Quito,,,,with some making it sound like a hot-bed of crime and others an up-and-coming city for South American travellers.
We’ve spent more than two weeks in the city on two separate visits, and want to help bust some myths and give some practical advice to help you make the most of your visit.
在访问Quito之前,这里有10件事要了解。
know your Quito bus stations
Quito has recently consolidated its previously fragmented system into two new, main terminals - Terminal Carcelen and Terminal Quitumbe - alongside the older La Ofelia, which continues to service the popular backpacker and birdwatcher stop ofMindo。Here’s what you need to know about the main stations:
Terminal Carcelen |Located in the north of the city. This is the place to get your buses to Otavalo, the Mitad del Mundo, Tulcán (for theQuito-Colombia边境穿越) or to access the northern coast and它的海滩(Esmeraldas, Atacames). A taxi to/from the station will cost $10-15.
终端Quitumbe |位于城市的南部。如果你要去Baños,,,,Guayaquil, Cuenca or the Amazon region, this is where you need to depart from. To reach it, take the ‘Role bus’ south to the last stop or a taxi for between $12 to $15.
Terminal Terrestre La Ofelia | Located in the north of the city. La Ofelia services destinations to the northwest of Quito such as Nanegalito and Mindo, as well as Cayambe. To get here either take the Metrobus north, to the end of the line or a taxi which should cost no more than $10 from the old town.
It’s likely that you’ll visit at least two bus stations during your time in Quito, so take the time to work out which one is best located for your hostel or Airbnb in the the capital. Some bus services will included a stop atbothCarcelen and Quitumbe, so it’s important you know in advance which one to get off at - if in doubt, just send your accommodation a quick message the night before to confirm the best bus station and how much the taxi should cost to them.
一些公共汽车公司(例如Trans Esmeraldas,Panamericana)仍在La Mariscal设有办事处。公共汽车不会从这里离开,但是如果您在该地区,它们是提前购买机票的方便地点。
请记住,您将需要身份证才能在厄瓜多尔购买公交车票。
are you an old town or new town sort of person?
99% of visitors will base themselves in either the historical area or the new town, better known as La Mariscal. What's the difference between the two?
老城的狭窄街道和广场lined with local restaurants, bakeries and fruit sellers. Quito's cathedral rises above the rest of the buildings and the Virgin statue looks over all from its position atop El Panecillo hill. During the day it's bustling with activity, but at night the area is pretty quiet. Although not the prettiest part of Latin American by a long shot (and certainly not the most appealing UNESCO World Heritage Site) it's the most authentic and charming area Quito has to offer.
La Mariscal, on the other hand, looks like the 21st century vomited on concrete. Full of karaoke joints, some dodgy clubs and bars, lots of gringo-centric restaurants and more than a few dodgy characters, it's noisy and ugly. However, for those wanting a proper night out or some western food, it's the place to be.
We chose to stay in the old town (at TheSecret Garden Hostel) on our first visit, and take taxis (costing $3-4 each way) to La Mariscal; we were very happy with the choice. On our second stay, we opted for this cheap Airbnb in the old town.
If you don’t know where to stay in Quito, or want some inspiration, then read our guide to theSeven Best Hostels in Quito呢
lunches are cheap and filling
On our budget, eating out is often a luxury. However, in Quito we treated ourselves to lunch out most days. This is because almost every local restaurant offers an 'Almuerzo' deal: a starter of hearty soup followed by a plate of rice, beans or lentils, fried plantains, salad and your choice of meat or fish. A fresh juice is also thrown in.
At around $2 or $3 per person, it makes lunch out the sensible and economical option - as well as an authentic travel experience.
随处可见您的ID副本
在中美洲和哥伦比亚度过了许多醉酒的夜晚之后,我们完全忘记了I.D.进入甚至是一回事。但是,在基多,这是必要的。
We learned this on our first night out in La Mariscal where our group, none of whom had I.D., were refused entry to four or five different bars. The reason places require it is not for age-verification, but more to do with local regulations on security - and this is pretty strictly adhered to. One afternoon, we wanted a 3 p.m. beer in a studenty bar but they refused to serve us until they saw identification!
大多数酒吧都会接受影印本,因此请确保您完成了一些复印件并随身携带。另外,请在手机上扫描或图片 - 永远不要在晚上带护照!
假出租车是真正的风险
基多必须为认识到它存在犯罪问题并采取一些积极的行动来解决这个问题而受到称赞。出租车乘客的明确绑架和抢劫是普遍的,并且是一个真正的风险。
When we crossed the从哥伦比亚到厄瓜多尔的边界,我们被给了一本小册子的移民icials. On one side was a handy map, on the other – rather than lovely information about the country – was a guide on how to avoid fake taxis. We had read numerous stories on-line, but this official correspondence from the government made us think that perhaps it wasn't all paranoia.
知道真正的出租车与假出租车的关键技巧是:
only take a yellow taxi with orange licence plates
the taxi should have '运输塞古罗'外部贴纸(通常在后窗上)
真正的出租车将配备两个安全摄像头和一个小的红色恐慌按钮。
安全摄像机应该在上面有白色胶带,表明他们尚未篡改
真正的出租车将有一个仪表,其使用是强制性的
do not take taxis which already have other passengers
Now for the reality. The first taxi we got from the bus station ticked all these boxes, but he refused to put the meter on and said they ‘don't do that in Quito’. We insisted and showed him the pamphlet, but to no avail. We therefore stopped and agreed the price with him.
我们乘坐的其他出租车进入了我们进入该市后立即将仪表放入。
Personally, back in that first visit to Quito, we only took taxis driven by old guys who we liked the look of. This may sound a bit silly, but we met two travellers who had been robbed separately from taxis within a few days of arriving in the city, so we really were taking every precaution possible.
Fast forward to 2019 however, and the taxi situation for travellers and locals had improved massively due to the ubiquity of Uber across Quito! We exclusively used the app for transport across the city (except from Terminal Carcelen) and would highly recommend you do the same - it provides cost certainty, removes a number of fake taxi security issues, and is incredibly convenient. It’s also completely legal and regulated in Ecuador (unlike in Colombia).
If not using Uber in Quito, then you should reserve a taxi with your hostel if heading to the bus station or airport, especially after dark or early in the morning. At night, be particularly vigilant with your taxi selection. If you feel insecure, ask the driver to stop straight away, get out and go into the nearest shop, cafe etc until they've gone.
If you’ve never travelled in this part of the world, then we recommend taking a look at this在拉丁美洲保持安全post.
Read Next |Quito的13件事
晚上可能很冷
This shouldn't be a surprise given the city is 2,800 metres above sea level, but a number of other travellers were a little unprepared for just how chilly it could be at night.
Make sure you've got a couple of warmer items packed to wrap up in! You should also understand the risks of being at high altitude before you arrive - readHow to Avoid Altitude Sickness in South Americafor more tips.
您可以以2美元的价格从机场前往城市
If you want to save some money, you can take the local green bus from Quito’s Mariscal Sucre airport to Rio Coca Terminal for just $2. They depart every 15 minutes or so, with the journey taking an hour.
From Rio Coca, you can take the public bus for 25 cents to either La Mariscal or the Old Town (journey time of 30 minutes). We wouldn't recommend this option after dark if you're unfamiliar with the city. Taking a taxi or Uber onward from Rio Coca will still save you money overall.
如果您确实从机场乘出租车,您会在主要信息点旁边找到一张官方出租车桌。说明您的目的地,您将获得一张纸张以给驾驶员。价格固定并根据距离而有所不同,但预计支付在25-35美元之间。另外,您可以预订从机场的私人单程转移here。
altitude adaptation is important
For those coming into Quito by bus from lower altitudes, you will acclimatise naturally. However, if flying from the coast or any other location near sea level, be aware that you could feel a little unwell initially. Symptoms such as headaches and nausea are not uncommon, and a quick run up a flight of stairs could leave you feeling a little more out of puff than normal.
A lot of people arriving in Quito intend to do at least a little trekking at one of the many surrounding volcanoes. These are not small hills, so it is probably a good idea to spend a couple of days in the city adjusting to the altitude before going even higher.
For more information on dealing with altitude sickness, be sure to head over tothis post。
这是您可以找到Galapagos的最后一分钟旅行的地方
独立访问的价格约为1000英镑,在1500至4000英镑以上的任何地方参加有组织的旅行,参观加拉帕戈斯群岛永远不会是廉价的游览。这就是为什么在两次去厄瓜多尔旅行后,我们仍然没有在那里做到这一点的原因。
如果您有心地前往岛上的巡游,那么稍微提高价格的一种方法是在最后一分钟预订您的旅行(或者至少将其放在打算离开之前的几周之前)。为此,您有两种选择:要么等到您到达Quito并在当地机构尝试运气,要么看一下类似的网站G Adventureswho offer really good discounts on relatively last minute trips. Followthis link了解更多。
If you have your trip already booked and are flying out of Quito, it’s important to know that airlines are quite strict with baggage limits. Thankfully, many of the city’s hostels able to store your heavy packs whilst you are away - often for free - if you spend a night or so with them before.
You really do need to watch your bags on buses
On any bus in, out or within Quito, you must be aware of the risk of bag slash thefts:
keep your small backpack on your lap at all times
切勿将其放在座位下方或之上
如果有人告诉您必须将行李放在其他地方,则礼貌地拒绝,无论他们多么坚持或穿着制服(众所周知,骗子在公共汽车司机的服装上打扮)。
基多的公共巴士非常便宜(每人$ 0.25),因此可以选择到城市的预算旅行者选择。只需采取明智的预防措施,例如上面的预防措施,这并不比您计划的要多得多 - 从Quito到Mindo。
阅读有关如何在拉丁美洲保持安全的更多信息this post。
but, remember, don't let crime ruin your time in the city
与拉丁美洲的许多资本城市一样,在某些领域,犯罪是一个真正的问题 - Quito也不例外。
但是,这并不意味着您不应该访问,也不应该将整个逗留时间完全偏执,这将发生可怕的事情。
只要明智并意识到风险。
In La Mariscal, don't go wandering off the main streets at night. When sight-seeing take only the cash you need and little else. Do not advertise that you have a phone, iPad or fancy camera. Be aware of fake taxis. Only take a taxi up the hill to see the Virgin statue - it really is stupid to go up there on your own. Be aware of the people around you and trust your gut if it feels dodgy.
而且,为了上帝的爱 - 不要在没有旅行保险的情况下旅行!我们推荐True TravellerorWorld Nomads但是,如果您对旅行保险感到困惑,请阅读this postfirst.